On Linux, make the Nix store really read-only by using the immutable bit

I was bitten one time too many by Python modifying the Nix store by
creating *.pyc files when run as root.  On Linux, we can prevent this
by setting the immutable bit on files and directories (as in ‘chattr
+i’).  This isn't supported by all filesystems, so it's not an error
if setting the bit fails.  The immutable bit is cleared by the garbage
collector before deleting a path.  The only tricky aspect is in
optimiseStore(), since it's forbidden to create hard links to an
immutable file.  Thus optimiseStore() temporarily clears the immutable
bit before creating the link.